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Cooking in Salzburg, Austria

Nockerl Nockerl. Who's there? A deservedly memorable day trip to Salzburg, where we made Salzburger Nockerl and Apfel Strudel with Edel Weiss Cooking School.

We started our Sunday in the blistering morning heat of ... Munich (I only ever seem to visit Kate in Munich when I am ill and during the throws of some sort of extreme weather event), where Kate is helpfully based - in good proximity to Salzburger Nockerl, 5 points to you Kate.

We set off on our merry adventure with a 9 euro ticket and the world of central Europe at our fingertips. Pulling into Salzburg was glorious; the sun was shinning and a guardian angel was at the station to greet us... see below to also be blessed.

After our guardian minion, the best one - suave Stuart - had graced us with his looming presence we wandered on through the glowing streets of Salzburg. We arrived at the Eidel Weiss cooking school with plenty of time to spare. We lingered outside the cave where we were to be brought into the small circle of people who know the ancient mysteries of the Salzburger nockerl. As we waited with the Austrian sun beating down on us, a fellow English lady came to stand with us; little did we know that she would turn out to be our third wheel and nemesis.

A third group came to join us and had the foresight (which we did not) to try the cookery school's door. Turns out the cave was free to enter and our diligent cookery teachers were there waiting all along.

We began our induction into Austrian cusine by making the infamous apfel strudel, which turns out isn't so Austrian after all - legend has it that when the Turkish stormed Vienna they brought with them baklava and other Turkish treats (seiging is hungry work), the filo pastry from which inspired strudel. Some believe this is why we have croissants as well, so thank the Turkish for their seiging and their dessert prowess.

Fortunately for us the cookery teachers had already made the strudel dough, so we didnt have to spend 24 hours in the cave waiting for our appley treat. Instead we mixed some apples, raisins, sugar and cinammon - hello, we are calling from Yankee candle HQ. Next we spread the dough to Lady Cassandra thinness with our knuckles, lifting the dough and spinning around the table like we were in a nursery rhyme.

We slip slapped the apple candle essence inside.

And then rolled it using its thin little blanket into a perfect, giant sausage roll shape.

Next, we popped our very delicate pudding into a baking tray and gave them a butter bath. We marked ours with a pretzel and an apple made of pastry to signify one of the biggest loves of our life, and let the poor cookery Cinderella put them in the oven to bake.

While the strudel baked and the cave heated up, we got cracking on our nockerl. The tables were reshuffled and we came into groups of three so that we could add a peak each to our nockerls. We beat our egg whites with sugar using some very efficent ikea egg whiskers that we all swore to buy immediatley after leaving the class (it is 6 months later and we are still sans magical whisker). Next we added the suggested extra of an egg yolk.. for stability? This would prove a questionable choice later on...

After we'd folded in some flour to keep those peaks stiff, we plopped our uncooked nockerl in a dish.

If you look at the image below you will see why English lady became our nemesis, she did not listen to the cooking instructions and made her egg as runny as we were runny-ing away from her.

We sat down to our unseasonal lunch of goulasch soup and sweated as we wated for our tasty homemade puds and talked shop about covid times with a lovely family from America. Below is a picture of the finished nockerl - it doesn't look as much like the high peaks of the Alps as much as the mountains of the UK, which are weedy and flat; so we will call it a homage to home.

We feasted on the nockerl with some jam. The texture was mashmallowy, but the taste was eggy to the power of egg.

Dessert number 2 was a lot more palatable, it was crispy, crumbly and tasted just like an Austrian Grandma's strudel.

We made an attempt to burn off our multiple desserts with a wander around Salzburg and a schvitz in the sun. We paddled our feet in the river Salzach, even though it is a salty named river, it didn't help to stifle the sweetness of the desserts. And we only made the day even sweeter by taking some gorgey pics in the Mirabellgarten and singing a song for our mum, who loves the Sound of Music and inoppurtune public singing.


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